The Tokugawa Art Museum in Nagoya houses an incredible collection of stuff owned by a branch of the Tokugawa clan.
Their prize possession, which draws in most of their visitors in the Genji Monogatari Emaki (Tale of Genji Picture Scroll) which is one of the picture scrolls that the art book I translated for my honours thesis was about, and is why I knew about the place and thought to go there.
Of course, it’s a really fragile 12th Century scroll of paper, so they don’t have the original on display very often. I knew I wouldn’t get to see it, but I knew they have exhibition displays about it, and mainly I figured if they own that, they probably own other things that are equally worth going to see.
And indeed. …Wow!
Initially I had heaps of fun just wandering around in amazement, looking at the standard stuff you find in museums here; like samurai and tea ceremony artifacts, Noh and Kyogen masks, beauty cabinets and cosmetics, and some elaborate go and shogi game boards (they were very cool).
The Genji room was pretty good too. Although i’ve seen the replica before during a special exhibition in the MM, so I passed by quicker than I might have otherwise.
Then I hit the library!!!
I don’t know if it’s a permanent exhibition and they rotate the books, or I just came at a good time, but they had an exhibition of historical books and a couple of minor picture scrolls. Some of the art work in the books was amazing, and all of the calligraphy was. I love looking at old books and I love being this much of a geek that I do.
And then to make it a truly amazing experience it turned out they had a special Hina Matsuri (Dolls Festival) exhibition on. Which was a massive room filled with exquisite displays of the personal Hina Matsuri doll collections that belonged to some of the Tokugawa clans richest women (some princesses).
I couldn’t take photos, and I was too involved with looking at it all even if I could have, but I bought some postcards in the shop. So i’m uploading some small versions of those.
Basically, anything a princess thought she could need was reproduced in miniature for the dolls. I wish I could show you of one of the collections in whole, but a photo probably wouldn’t do it justice anyway. The detail was amazing.
One of the things I thought was especially cool were the miniature Kai Awase (shell matching game) sets. They also had a large normal sized set, but the small ones were made from real shells as well. The game is like “memory” usually played with a set of snap cards (All the shells are turned picture side down so they look the same, then you turn over two, if they’re the same you keep them, if they’re not you turn them both back over… game continues until they’re all gone and the person with the most wins)
The pictures on the shells are all hand painted and usually feature scenes of nature or Heian period court life. And because these sets were commissioned and owned by nobles the shells had really really finely detailed paintings on them.
Some of the sets were laid out in front of the dolls almost as if they were playing, except of course they were picture side up so we could see the paintings. You can’t actually see that the shells in the postcard below have pictures on them but the ones in the exhibition were so tiny and so detailed it was astounding.
